MOUNT SHPIRAG, Albania (Reuters) – It took Sheme Filja 10 days and an army of villagers to paint the name "ENVER" on the side of Albania's Mount Shpirag in 1968, in tribute to then communist dictator Enver Hoxha. The 100-metre-high letters still dominated the skyline above Berat, Albania's oldest town, when Hoxha died in 1985 and communism crumbled in 1990. They faded under napalm attack when Albania's first-democratically elected government deployed the army in 1994 to wipe Hoxha's name from the mountain. But Filja restored them three years later at the behest of diehard communists. …

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